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Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret won Olympic gold in sport climbing's combined event at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, the discipline's debut as a full Olympic sport, becoming the first-ever Olympic champion in climbing and establishing herself as the dominant competitive climber of her generation. Her sustained dominance across World Cup competitions throughout the 2010s and 2020s, winning an unusually high proportion of the events she entered across multiple different climbing disciplines, reflected genuinely all-around excellence uncommon even among elite competitive climbers. Garnbret successfully defended her Olympic title at the 2024 Paris Olympics, winning gold in the boulder and lead combined event again and becoming the first climber to win consecutive Olympic titles in the sport's still-young Olympic history. Her combination of being climbing's first-ever Olympic champion and her sustained back-to-back Olympic dominance has made Garnbret the individual most widely regarded as the greatest competitive sport climber in the discipline's Olympic era.
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Lynn Hill
Lynn Hill became the first person, male or female, to complete a free ascent of El Capitan's famous route "The Nose" in Yosemite, in 1993, a milestone climb that remained unrepeated by any other climber for years afterward given its extraordinary technical difficulty. Her subsequent 1994 return to complete the same climb in under 24 hours, a feat that had seemed nearly impossible even to experienced climbers, further cemented her achievement as one of the most significant single climbs in the sport's history. Hill's dominance in competitive sport climbing throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, winning numerous major international competitions, established her as the leading woman in the sport during that era, before her attention shifted toward the more historically significant outdoor free-climbing achievements that defined her broader legacy. Her combination of the historic first free ascent of The Nose and her competitive dominance has made Hill one of the most significant figures in rock climbing history, and her famous quote that the climb was "free, historic, and impossible for a man" reflected the specific technical body-proportion advantages she brought to that particular achievement.
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